In recent years, Apulia has certainly been one of the most loved and popular destinations for Italians – and not only. Among its areas, the Itria Valley stands out, which in a very short time has managed to establish itself among the most coveted destinations in the world, thanks to the uniqueness of its trulli and the presence of the many masserie converted into comfortable hotels.
Certainly the most suitable period for a trip to this area is the summer season, which in Apulia is quite long and runs approximately from May to October. The ideal would be to stay at least a week, to experience the slow rhythms of Puglia and to be able to visit everything quietly, but I am well aware that the time available for most of us is always short, so let me reassure you: the discovery of this area can also be concentrated in a weekend.
I therefore propose an itinerary for a weekend in Valle d’Itria, a regenerating trip involving short journeys, to be made comfortably in an electric car. We start from Savelletri, where we charge our electric car at the Be Charge column in Via Accademia Navale.
Day 1: from sea to the Trulli
SAVELLETRI
Our Apulian weekend in an electric car starts from Savelletri, a small seaside town that in just a few years has gone from being the ‘fishermen’s village’ renowned for the goodness of its urchins (to be eaten strictly with bread) to being the Mecca for lovers of masserie farms. Indeed, Savelletri is home to many wonderful masserie (farmhouses) that have made hospitality their trademark.
And so, after a walk pervaded by the scent of the sea, we decide to stop for lunch at a masseria, to enjoy traditional Apulian cuisine surrounded by white and olive trees.
ALBEROBELLO
In the afternoon we stop in Alberobello, the magnificent City of Trulli, now world-famous and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Trulli are rustic constructions characterised by a cone-shaped roof formed by so-called chiancole. They were once used by farmers to store their tools, which is why they are scattered throughout the Itria Valley.
Only in Alberobello, however, is there such a concentration (even in the town centre) that the landscape is transformed into a fairy tale. Yes, because once you arrive in Alberobello you feel like the protagonist of a fairy tale. My advice is to wander around the entire City of Trulli, letting yourself be enchanted by these buildings, until you arrive in the Rione dell’Aia Piccola, still not very touristy and with a more intimate dimension.
LOCOROTONDO
The last stop of the day is Locorotondo, characterised by a snow-white historic centre with cummerse, small houses with sloping roofs. Tonight we sleep in a cummersa, part of an albergo diffuso. So let’s leave our luggage and head straight for the discovery of this village that is one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. Why? We understand immediately. It is enough to get lost in its alleyways to be enchanted by the little balconies in bloom, by the meticulous details on the walls and even on the doors of the houses.
Locorotondo also seems to have stepped out of a storybook. Dulcis in fundo, let’s have dinner at Casa Pinto to taste the excellent traditional local dishes, accompanied by a good pizza (which is prepared to perfection here).
Day 2: from Cisternino to Ostuni
CISTERNINO
After a long stop at the café for a slow, rejuvenating breakfast, we take our electric car to explore Cisternino. In a few minutes we reach the sign that welcomes us at the entrance and reminds us that Cisternino too is listed among the most beautiful villages in Italy. In fact, it too enchants us with its historic centre, which, although it does not have the meticulously designed details of Locorotondo, encapsulates the Apulian soul, even in its most genuine facets. Especially at the table.
Cisternino is in fact famous for its bombette, tasty meat rolls stuffed with caciocavallo cheese. Tradition has it that they are enjoyed in the town’s typical cooker, first choosing the meat at the counter and then sitting down and waiting for it to be prepared. We can’t help but give in to tradition and for lunch we stop at one of the historic cookers, Zio Pietro, to indulge in the much-loved bombette, accompanied by potatoes cooked under the ashes and vegetables.
MARTINA FRANCA
After this much-appreciated traditional lunch, we pick up our electric car and head to Martina Franca to round off our lunch with a typical dessert from the town. After all, you know, you can’t think of going on a diet in Apulia. And so we are tempted by the multitude of local specialities. Specifically, Martina Franca is famous for the bocconotto of Caffè Tripoli, a historic business located in the city’s main square. It is worth tasting this dessert not only for its goodness, but also because the experience in Caffè Tripoli allows one to take a real trip back in time.
After this rich dessert accompanied by coffee, we decide to take a walk to admire the historical centre of Martina Franca, famous for its opulent, baroque architecture that stands out from that of neighbouring towns. After two hours snooping around Martina (that’s what the locals call it, shortening its name), we head to Ostuni for one of the most anticipated moments: sunset.
OSTUNI
Ostuni, famous for its whiteness – which is why it was given the name ‘White City’ – is the perfect place to watch the sunset. And we Apulians know it well. There are numerous places with a view where you can enjoy an aperitif while the sun sets on the horizon.
Before we reach these places, we get lost in the labyrinth of immaculate white alleys, letting ourselves be seduced by the scent of hanging laundry and the unique atmosphere of this picturesque town, a must-see in Puglia. It is impossible not to be charmed by Ostuni, which is why we decided to spend our second and last night in the Itria Valley here.
Day 3: Torre Guaceto and return
We also decide to enjoy Ostuni in the morning, with a morning walk to admire the famous ‘gateway to heaven’. Then we head to the sea, on the Adriatic side, to spend the last day in complete relaxation at the Torre Guaceto Nature Reserve.
This is a heavenly oasis of fine white sand lapped by crystal-clear waters. It is an ideal stop for snorkelling enthusiasts, as it is a reserve of some protected species of fish and sea turtles.
In summer it is the perfect destination for bathers who love wild and idyllic places, but even when temperatures are lower it has its charm. In fact, Torre Guaceto is also ideal for long walks as far as the Aragonese Tower. As soon as we arrive we are captivated by the brilliant colours of the sea and sand and we say to ourselves that yes, this could only be the perfect end to this weekend!
Day 3: Torre Guaceto and return
